Maharashtra, a land rich in history and culture, is home to some of India’s most exquisite and unique sarees. These sarees are not just pieces of clothing but represent the artistry, traditions, and distinct regional identities that have been passed down through generations. From the luxurious Paithani to the versatile Nauvari, the sarees of Maharashtra are a testament to the state’s diverse weaving traditions and deep-rooted cultural significance. In this article, we explore the various sarees of Maharashtra, their origins, distinct weaving techniques, and their importance in Maharashtrian culture.
1.Paithani saree of Paithan: Royal heritage in silk and zari
The Paithani saree, originating from Paithan in Aurangabad, is one of Maharashtra’s most iconic handlooms. Woven from pure silk and adorned with real gold or silver zari, Paithani sarees are celebrated for their exquisite craftsmanship.These sarees are known for their richly designed pallus featuring motifs like peacocks, lotus, vines, and parrots. The dyes used are traditionally plant-based, giving the fabric a soft sheen and durability. Popular colors include parrot green, magenta, and royal blue.Once worn by Maratha queens and Peshwa nobility, Paithani sarees today are still considered essential for Maharashtrian weddings and religious festivals.
2.Nauvari saree draping style: A symbol of strength and tradition
The Nauvari saree, meaning ‘nine yards’, is traditionally worn in a dhoti style without a petticoat. This drape is closely linked with the history of Maharashtrian women warriors and farmers who needed mobility in daily life and battle.Nauvari sarees are usually made of cotton or silk-cotton blends and come in bright shades like saffron, green, and purple. Each community in Maharashtra has its own version of the Nauvari drape for instance, Brahmin women wear it with pleats in the front, while fisherwomen wrap it tightly for ease of movement. This saree is typically paired with traditional Maharashtrian jewelry such as the nath, green glass bangles, and Kolhapuri saaj necklaces.
3.Karvati Kati saree from Vidarbha: A sharp-edged beauty
From the Vidarbha region, especially Bhandara district, comes the unique Karvati Kati saree. Its name comes from the word ‘karvat’ meaning saw-tooth, which describes the distinctive zigzag border of the saree.Woven on pit looms, Karvati Kati sarees are typically made of cotton or silk and are ideal for the region’s hot climate. The borders and pallu have geometric designs in bold shades like black, red, and yellow. The fabric is lightweight, making it suitable for daily wear and festive occasions alike. These sarees have been granted GI (Geographical Indication) status and are important to Vidarbha’s cultural identity.
4.Khun saree of Kolhapur and Belgaum: Rustic charm with vibrant motifs
Khun, or Khana fabric, is traditionally used for blouses but has now evolved into full-length sarees. These sarees are widely produced in Kolhapur and Belgaum and are loved for their mixed cotton-silk texture. Khun sarees are known for their tiny motifs such as dots, stripes, and temple patterns woven directly into the fabric. The material has a subtle shine and comes in combinations like maroon with mustard, green with gold, and pink with black. Modern designers are now experimenting with Khun in sarees, skirts, and even kurtas, making it a popular choice for both rural and urban wearers.
5.Ilkal saree in southern Maharashtra: Woven harmony in border and body
Though native to Karnataka, Ilkal sarees are also extremely popular in southern Maharashtra, especially in the Solapur, Sangli, and Kolhapur districts. These sarees are made using the tope teni technique, where the body, border, and pallu are woven separately and joined seamlessly. Ilkal sarees are known for their contrasting red or maroon pallus and bold temple-style borders. Cotton-silk blends make them comfortable for daily wear and long working hours. Traditional motifs include chikki (checkered) and gomi (lotus) designs.They are commonly worn during festivals like Ugadi and Ganesh Chaturthi in southern parts of the state.
6. Ganga-Jamuna saree design: Contrast borders that narrate unity
Ganga-Jamuna isn’t a separate saree type but a popular border design used in various Maharashtrian sarees. This style features contrasting borders on each side of the saree usually a symbolic combination like red and green or pink and blue.The name refers to the rivers Ganga and Yamuna, representing harmony between differences. Often seen in Paithani, Nauvari, and Khun sarees, the Ganga-Jamuna design adds visual drama and cultural meaning.Brides often choose this style for traditional ceremonies as it blends beauty with symbolism.
Economic importance: Saree weaving industry in Maharashtra
The saree weaving industry in Maharashtra supports thousands of artisans and plays a vital role in the state’s rural economy. Paithani sarees alone account for more than ₹200 crore in annual sales, supported by government handloom schemes and online platforms.Regions like Yeola, Kolhapur, and Vidarbha have also seen a rise in tourism and textile-based workshops, making saree weaving not just a cultural practice but a thriving economic activity.